Project: BuckRV-8   -  
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Builder Name:Buck Wyndham   -  
Project:   Vans - RV-8   -   VIEW REPORTS
Total Hours:3958.65
Start/Last Date:Jan 08, 2002 - No Finish Date
Engine:AeroSport Power IO-375-M1S
Propeller:Whirlwind 330-3B/72H-73 3-blade CS
Panel:G3X, G5, GTN650, GTR20, GTX45R, GMA245, GMC507
 
Friendly URL: https://eaabuilderslog.org?s=BuckRV-8

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Dec 13, 2022     Oil cooler plenum; Sniffle valve drain; Alternate air door & cable - (6 hours)       Category: Firewall Forward
1. I began installing the oil cooler and plenum, but I realized that the rubber strip on the plenum had the potential to get loose with pressure from the baffle, so I removed everything and decided to glue and caulk the rubber seal in place. I put glue inside the attachment channel and clamped it in place. Then a few hours later, after it had started to set, I caulked the inside edges of the seal with high-temp caulk. After everything completely sets, I'll resume installing the oil cooler and plenum.

2. In the meantime, I moved to other parts of the engine. I decided to fabricate and install the sniffle valve drain line. I clamped a short length of hose to the valve, then clamped a foot-long piece of aluminum tube to that, running it straight back to a point between the inner exhaust pipes. I removed the rubber from a #4 Adel clamp, drilled a #12 hole in the exhaust cross-strap, and attached everything with an AN3 bolt, washer and high-temp locknut.

3. Next, I installed the intake snorkel to the fuel servo with a new gasket and the proper washers and cross-drilled bolts. (I still need to safety-wire the attach bolts). Then I used blind rivets to attach the snorkel to the left intake baffle. I used some high-temp sealant to fill some gaps here (more of this will be done later).

4. Finally, I installed and rigged the alternate air door to the intake snorkel. I cut the pull-cable to the right length, re-routed it from the firewall and installed the Adel clamps to keep it in position, installed the hardware on the valve, wrapped the pull cable 2.5 times around the door screw, and tightened it. As in improvement to the design, I used a longer screw and a couple of spacer washers to get the cable to stand off the face of the door a bit, so the door won't get scratched. I finished off the end of the pull-cable with a piece of heat-shrink tube so nobody stabs themselves on it.


 


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